Bobbinet or genuine tulle is a specific type of tulle netting Tulle is a lightweight, very fine netting, which is often starched. It can be made of various fibres, including silk, nylon, and rayon. Tulle is most commonly used for veils, gowns , and ballet tutus. Tulle comes in a wide array of colors and it can also easily be dyed to suit the needs of the consumer. It is readily available from most fabric which has been made in the United Kingdom The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland[note 7] is a sovereign state located off the northwestern coast of continental Europe. It is an island country, spanning an archipelago including Great Britain, the northeastern part of the island of Ireland, and many small islands. Northern Ireland is the only part of the UK with a land since the invention of the bobbinet machine in 1806 by John Heathcoat John Heathcoat was an English inventor . John Heathcoat coined the term "bobbin net", or bobbinet as it is spelled today, to distinguish his machine-made tulle from the hand-made "pillow lace", called so because of the pillow used to produce it. Machines based on his original designs are still in operation today producing fabrics in Perry Street, Chard, Somerset , UK.
History
The forerunner of bobbinet tulle was lace Lace is an openwork fabric, patterned with open holes in the work, made by machine or by hand. The holes can be formed via removal of threads or cloth from a previously woven fabric, but more often open spaces are created as part of the lace fabric. Lace-making is an ancient craft. True lace was not made until the late 15th and early 16th . Lace has been produced for a long time, made in tedious hand labour with thin thread and needles or bobbins. The first lace was basically made by intertwining and knotting the thread artfully. It was not until 1500, however, that more elaborate lace could be produced. Generally speaking, lace is based on a net ground. Demands rose quickly and so net-like ground for lace was being produced in special manufactures around 1700. By the end of the 18th century, people tried to produce the net ground mechanically. In 1765 they managed to create a tulle-like fabric on a so-called stocking framework. It took, however, some more years until the first real tulle could be produced mechanically. Bobbinet machines were finally invented in 1807 by John Heathcoat. He studied the hand movements of manual lace makers and reproduced them in the roller-locker machine. The smooth, unpatterned tulle produced on these machines was on a par with real, hand-made lace net. Heathcoat’s bobbinet machine is so ingeniously designed that the ones used today have suffered little alteration.
Fabric structure
Bobbinet tulle is constructed by warp In weaving, the warp is the set of lengthwise yarns through which the weft is woven. Each individual warp thread in a fabric is called a warp end. Warp means "that which is thrown across" and weft In weaving, weft or woof is the yarn which is drawn through the warp yarns to create a fabric. In North America, it is sometimes referred to as the "fill" or the "filling yarn" yarns Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and ropemaking. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in which the weft yarn is looped diagonally A diagonal is a line joining two nonconsecutive vertices of a polygon or polyhedron. Informally, any sloping line is called diagonal. The word "diagonal" derives from the Greek διαγώνιος , from dia- ("through", "across") and gonia ("angle", related to gony "knee"); it was used by both around the vertical warp yarn to form a hexagonal In geometry, a hexagon is a polygon with six edges and six vertices. A regular hexagon has Schläfli symbol {6}. The total of the internal angles of any hexagon is 720 degrees mesh which is regular and clearly defined. Bobbinet netting has a characteristic diagonal fabric appearance, is diagonally stable and slideproof, durable, sheer , the lightest bobbinet weighing no more than 6 g per m2 and has a high strength to weight ratio.
Uses
Bobbinet tulle fabrics have long been used for high-quality exclusive curtains, bridalwear A wedding dress or wedding gown is clothing worn by a bride during a wedding ceremony. Color, style and ceremonial importance of the gown can depend on the religion and culture of the wedding participants , haute couture Haute couture refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing. Haute couture is made to order for a specific customer, and it is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish by the most experienced and capable seamstresses, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques fashion, lingerie Lingerie is a term for fashionable and possibly alluring undergarments. The term in the French language applies to all undergarments for either gender. In English it is applied specifically to those undergarments designed to be visually appealing or erotic. Lingerie usually incorporating one or more flexible, stretchy materials like Lycra, nylon , , embroidery Embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as metal strips, pearls, beads, quills, and sequins , where it is used as base cloth for the actual embroidery, and as base nets for high-quality wigs. Use has also extended into technical applications where the material's properties are more important than its appearance. These technical applications include sunblinds for cars and railway coaches, safety nets, parachute A parachute is a device used to slow the motion of an object through an atmosphere by creating drag. Parachutes are usually made out of cloth, most commonly nylon. Parachutes must slow an object's terminal vertical speed by a minimum 75% in order to be classified as such skirting, radar Radar is an object detection system that uses electromagnetic waves to identify the range, altitude, direction, or speed of both moving and fixed objects such as aircraft, ships, motor vehicles, weather formations, and terrain. The term RADAR was coined in 1940 by the U.S. Navy as an acronym for radio detection and ranging. The term has since reflective fabrics for military decoys, flexible textile switches and sensor, as well as light diffusion fabrics for the film A film, also called a movie or motion picture, is a story conveyed with moving images. It is produced by recording photographic images with cameras, or by creating images using animation techniques or visual effects. The process of filmmaking has developed into an art form and industry and theatre Theatre is a branch of the performing arts. While any performance may be considered theatre, as a performing art, it focuses almost exclusively on live performers creating a self contained drama. A performance qualifies as dramatic by creating a representational illusion. By this broad definition, theatre had existed since the dawn of man, as a industries. Depending on the yarns bobbinet tulle is produced with, it can, for example, be made to be almost invisible against the skin or even conductive.
Lace Lace is an openwork fabric, patterned with open holes in the work, made by machine or by hand. The holes can be formed via removal of threads or cloth from a previously woven fabric, but more often open spaces are created as part of the lace fabric. Lace-making is an ancient craft. True lace was not made until the late 15th and early 16th types
Needle lace Needle lace is a type of lace created using a needle and thread to stitch up hundreds of small stitches to form the lace itself
Punto in Aria Punto in Aria is an early form of Needle lace, devised in Italy. It is considered the first true lace because it was the first meant to be stitched alone, and not first onto a woven fabric · Point de Venise Point de Venise is a Venetian needle lace from the 17th century characterized by scrolling floral patterns with additional floral motifs worked in relief (in contrast with the geometric designs of the earlier reticella) · Point de France · Alençon Alençon lace or point d'Alençon is a needle lace that originated in Alençon, France. It is sometimes called the "Queen of lace." Lace began being manufactured in originated in Alençon in the 16th century. The local industry was promoted by Jean-Baptiste Colbert, during the reign of Louis XIV, who established a Royal Lace Workshop · Argentan · Argentella · Armenian Like Lacis, Armenian needlelace seems to be an obvious descendant of netmaking. Where lacis adds decorative stitches to a net ground, Armenian needlelace involves making the net itself decorative · Hollie Point Hollie Point is a flat needlepoint lace with rows of knotted buttonhole stitches worked over stretched threads. Simple designs are created by holes left in otherwise plain cloth work formed by the buttonhole stitches. Noted for its appearance in baby clothes in the 18th and early 19th century, particularly in caps, the shoulder seams of shirts, · Halas lace · Point de Gaze · Youghal Youghal lace is a needle lace inspired by Italian needle lace developed in Youghal, County Cork, Ireland · Kenmare Lace Kenmare Lace is a hand made needlepoint lace originally made in Kenmare, Ireland. In the 1800s, sisters of the Poor Clare convent introduced needlepoint lace to the women and girls of the locality. It was a response to the poverty that followed the Great Famine. The initiative was of immeasurable help to the people of the area in those difficult · Limerick
Embroidered: Reticella Reticella is a needle lace dating from the 15th century and remaining popular into the first quarter of the 17th century · Buratto Buratto is an Italian needle lace made by darning on a net. It is quite similar in appearance to filet lace but with one important distinction—it is darned onto a woven net, rather than the knotted net used for filet. Buratto tends to also be heavier in appearance due to the woven nature of the netting used · Filet/Lacis Filet lace is a Needle lace created by darning on a ground of knotted net or netting · Ñandutí Ñandutí is a traditional Paraguayan embroidered lace, introduced by the Spaniards, that is related to Teneriffe lace. The name means "spider web" in Guaraní, the official, indigenous language of Paraguay · Needlerun net Needlerun Net refers to a family of laces created by using a needle to embroider on a net ground. Along with Tambour lace this became more popular with the advent of machine made netting · Tambour Tambour lace refers to a family of lace made by stretching a fine net over a frame and creating a chain stitch using a fine hook to reach through the net and draw the working thread through the net · Teneriffe Teneriffe lace is a needle lace from the island of Tenerife. Sometimes called Sol lace, sun lace, similar to a lace from South America called ñandutí . In the 1930s - 1940s it was sometimes called Polka Spider Web Lace
Cut Work: Battenberg · Broderie Anglaise Broderie Anglaise is a whitework needlework technique incorporating features of embroidery, cutwork and needle lace that arose in England in the 19th century · Carrickmacross Carrickmacross lace is a type of needle lace. Originating in Carrickmacross, Ireland in the early 19th century, it is still practised today
Bobbin lace Bobbin lace is a lace textile made by braiding and twisting lengths of thread, which are wound on bobbins to manage them. As the work progresses, the weaving is held in place with pins set in a lace pillow, the placement of the pins usually determined by a pattern or pricking pinned on the pillow
Ancient: Antwerp Antwerp lace, is a bobbin lace distinguished by stylized flower pot motifs on a six point star ground. It originated in Antwerp, where in the 17th century an estimated 50% of the population of Antwerp was involved in lace making. Antwerp lace is also known, from its familiar repeated motif, as Pot Lace— in Dutch Pottenkant or Potten Kant. It is · Ecclesiastical · Freehand The very early bobbin laces were probably made freehand, as pins were scarce, coarse, and expensive. At first, the laces were purely utilitarian: “seaming” laces joining narrow widths of fabric, and toothed or scalloped laces reinforcing the edges (edgings). Many of the later freehand laces were also functional, but some areas produced very · Torchon Torchon lace is a bobbin lace that was made all over Europe. It is continuous, with the pattern made at the same time as the ground. Torchon lace is notable for being coarse and strong, as well as its simple geometric patterns and straight lines. It does not use representational designs. Torchon lace was used by the middle classes for edging or
Continental: Binche Binche lace is a Flemish bobbin lace that originated in Binche, Belgium. It is continuous, meaning it is made all at once, in one piece. It is generally made in strips 2 inches wide. Though typically it has no cordonnet outlining the design against the ground, occasional pieces are made with a very fine one, about the same thickness as the thread · Flanders · Mechlin Mechlin lace is a bobbin lace originally produced in Mechlin. It is one of the best known Flemish laces. It is fine, transparent, and looks best when worn over another color. It was made in Mechlin, Antwerp, Lier and Turnhout. It was used for coiffures de nuit, garnitures de corset, ruffles and cravats · Paris · Valenciennes Valenciennes lace is a type of bobbin lace which originated in Valenciennes, in the Nord département of France, and flourished from about 1705 to 1780. Later production moved to Belgium in and around Ypres. The industry continued onto the 19th century on a diminished scale. By the 19th century valenciennes lace could be made by machine
Point ground: Bayeux · Blonde Blonde lace is a continuous bobbin lace from France that is made of silk. The term blonde refers to the natural color of the silk thread. Originally this lace was made with the natural-colored silk, and later in black. Most blonde lace was also made in black. It was made in the 18th and 19th centuries. The pattern, which is generally of flowers, · Bucks point Bucks point is a bobbin lace from the East Midlands in England. "Bucks" is short for Buckinghamshire, which was the main center of production. The lace was also made in the nearby counties of Bedfordshire and Northamptonshire. Bucks point is very similar to the French Lille lace, and thus is often called English Lille. It is also similar · Chantilly Chantilly lace is a handmade bobbin lace named after the city of Chantilly, France, dating from the 17th century, though the most famous are silk laces introduced in the 18th century. Though called Chantilly lace, most of the lace bearing this name was actually made in Bayeux in France and Geraardsbergen, now in Belgium · Tønder Tønder lace is a point-ground type of handmade bobbin lace identified with the Tønder region of Denmark since about 1850, although lace of many types has been made there since as early as 1650. The term is also used more broadly, to refer to any bobbin lace made in Denmark · Beveren · Lille
Guipure: Genoese · Venetian · Bedfordshire · Cluny · Maltese
Part laces: Honiton · Bruges · Brussels Brussels lace is a type of pillow lace that originated in and around Brussels. The term "Brussels lace" has been broadly used for any lace from Brussels, however the term strictly interpreted refers to bobbin lace, in which the pattern is made first, then the ground, or réseau, added, also using bobbin lace. Brussels lace is not to be
Tape: Milanese · Flemish · Russian · Peasant
Tape lace
Mezzopunto · Princess · Renaissance · Romanian point
Knotted lace
Macramé Macramé or macrame is a form of textile-making using knotting rather than weaving or knitting. Its primary knots are the square knot and forms of hitching . It has been used by sailors, especially in elaborate or ornamental knotting forms to decorate anything from knife handles to bottles to parts of ships · Tatting Tatting is a technique for handcrafting a particularly durable lace constructed by a series of knots and loops. Tatting can be used to make lace edging as well as doilies, collars, and other decorative pieces. The lace is formed by a pattern of rings and chains formed from a series of cow hitch, or half-hitch knots, called double stitches , over a
Crocheted lace Crochet lace is an application of the art of crochet. Generally it uses finer threads and more decorative styles of stitching - often with flowing lines or scalloped edges to give interest. Variation of the size of the holes also gives a piece a "lacy' look
Broomstick lace · Irish crochet · Hairpin · Filet crochet
Lace knitting
Lace knitting
Machine-made lace
Warp Knit · Bobbinet · Leavers · Pusher · Barmen · Curtain Machine · Chemical
Hand-finished: Hand-run Gimps
External links
Categories: Woven fabrics | Net fabrics | Stage lighting | Scenic design
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